The second world war (1939–1945) was the deadliest, most expensive, and most widespread war in history. Europe’s colonial powers fell with the war, which had dominated the world political power for four centuries. Following this, the United States and the Soviet Union became superpowers. As the conflict progressed, enormous advances in science, military, and medical technology were made, from antibiotics to atom bombs; furthermore, the government invested unprecedented sums in research and development.
Every nation had to be mobilised not only ideologically but in its aspect of everyday activity during World War II. Several factors affected fashion during the wartime — economy, including population demographics, domestic economic expansions, the shift towards women in the workforce, etc. Fashion is always influenced by the functions that clothes must fulfil. Economics, availability of goods, social expressions, and aspirations all play a role in fashion trends. Fashion is affected by these factors and is reflected in society and culture.
For centuries, Europe, especially Paris had been the center of everything related to fashion. As Word War II wore on, many fashion houses were forced to close, or in some cases, they sided with the Nazis by outfitting them. As Paris fashion began to slow down, the door opened for American designers. It was no longer possible for American designers to draw inspiration or original ideas from Paris. Many designers started focusing on sportswear and United States became the world’s sportswear capital. In comparison to the custom-made dresses, the clothes during those times were also affordable.
The clothing shortage was undoubtedly the biggest cause of change in fashion during the war. Fewer colors were available because the chemicals normally used to dye textiles were instead used in explosives. As a result, the coloring on clothes was lighter to save dyes.
The stock of natural fibers was confiscated by the government. As a result, domestic manufacturers began substituting other fibers. Since the government confiscated the stocks, it was nearly impossible to find other materials such as silk, nylons, or elastic. Textiles such as silk and wool were used in the manufacture of parachutes, and leather and wool were used to make uniforms and shoes.
In 1942, the Limitation Order (L-85) was issued by the U.S Production Board. The goal of this order was to reduce domestic production by 15% and save more than 40 million pounds worth of wool cloth. In addition to this, older clothes were intended to be more affordable.
L-85 dictated various fashion designs. Details such as pockets, cuffs, and double pleats were no longer allowed. ‘Rationing’ was the new buzzword. Women’s clothes were smaller and less full. Women’s bathing clothes were also subjected to the L-85 restrictions, manufacturers were only allowed to use a limited amount of fabric. As a result of these restrictions, two-piece swimsuits became popular. The first designs were modest and included skirts. However, the swimsuits became more revealing as the restrictions tightened.
Rationing also affected shoes. The shortage of leather and rubber lead to new shoe styles, such as platform shoes with thick soles and wedges. The use of wood and cork became common. Reptile skin and mesh were often used for linings.
As a part of rationing rules, heels were restricted to an inch in height and only six colors were allowed. Women wore clothing that better suited the employment they were performing in factories as more and more women were needed there. There was not much glamour or femininity in those clothes. Wearing heels and dresses was just not practical. Women were not allowed to let their hair down in factories. As an alternative to fancy, feathered hats, they chose turban wraps. Turbans worn by women had twofold uses. In addition to functioning as a safety device, it also served as a practical way to hide messy hair. Women didn’t have much time to look after themselves as they worked and took care of their families.
Fashion changed forever after World War II. Bikinis were introduced, and women began wearing slacks more often. Skirts became shorter and bikinis became more common. There was also a change in informality, and there was a shift in variety among men. Even though France regained its dominance with the “New Look” in 1947, the United States and Great Britain became more influential in fashion design during this period.
